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Norbert Wabnig, who said that good cheese does not require "a biosphere," at his store, the Cheese Store, in Beverly Hills, Calif., Sept. 27, 2011. Affinage, the careful practice of ripening cheese, is about a ritualized series of procedures that are meant to bring each wheel and wedge to the apex of delectability. (Amy Dickerson/The New York Times) - XNYT66